Kioni

Kioni is the prettiest of Ithaca's harbours, a deep bay in the northeast where houses in pale ochre, pink and white climb steep pine-covered slopes around the water and yachts moor along the quay. Three ruined stone windmills stand on the headland at the harbour entrance, one of the standard images of the island. Unlike much of Ithaca and Kefalonia it survived the 1953 earthquake with buildings intact, which is why its architecture feels older than most Ionian villages. There is no real beach, but swimming platforms and small pebble coves lie along the shore path, and the water inside the bay is calm and clear. Tavernas line the quay and a coastal path leads to Frikes.

What to look for

• The three windmills - ruined stone mills on the headland.
• The pastel houses - pre-1953 buildings on pine-covered slopes.
• The yacht quay - a small harbour with waterfront tavernas.
• The coastal path - a walk along the shore toward Frikes.

When to go

Late spring and September; July and August fill the quay with yachts and the tavernas with charter crews. Winter closes almost everything and the village empties.

Before you go

There is no proper beach, only rocks and small pebble entries, which disappoints some visitors. Parking in the village is very limited and streets are narrow. Ferry connections to Ithaca are limited and change seasonally.

Nearby

Frikes and Stavros lie west; Vathy and the Cave of the Nymphs are in the south of the island.