Kokkari

Kokkari occupies a small headland with a bay on each side, one holding the old fishing harbour with tavernas around it, the other a long pebble beach exposed to the north. The village kept its tiled roofs and narrow lanes when much of the Samos coast was rebuilt, and the fishing fleet still works from the quay. The exposed beach catches a steady afternoon wind through the summer, which made Kokkari a windsurfing base, with schools renting from the shore; the same wind means swimming there is choppy from midday, so most people use the sheltered coves. Behind the village, footpaths climb through vineyards and pine into the Ambelos foothills toward Vourliotes and Manolates.

What you actually see

• The double bay - a fishing harbour on one side, a wind-exposed beach on the other.
• The tiled village - old lanes and roofs behind the waterfront.
• The windsurf scene - schools and rentals on the northern beach.
• The mountain paths - trails climbing to the hill villages behind.

When to go

May to September; the wind builds through the afternoon in summer, so mornings are calmer for swimming. Spring is best for the walks inland, when the hills are green.

Honest expectations

The main beach is pebble, not sand, and the afternoon chop and undertow can be strong. The waterfront is given over to tourism and prices reflect it. Parking in the village is tight.

Nearby

Vourliotes and Manolates are up in the hills; Vathy and the Potami gorge lie either side of the coast.