Lefkes

Lefkes was built in the fifteenth century in a fold of the hills at around three hundred metres, deliberately hidden from the coast so that raiders could not see it from the water, and it served as the island's capital into the nineteenth century. The layout follows that logic: lanes that twist and dead-end, houses turned inward, and a maze that confuses anyone who does not live there. The cathedral of Agia Triada, built of Parian marble in 1830, dominates the village with twin bell towers. From here the Byzantine Road, a paved marble mule track of the medieval period, runs down through the hills to Prodromos and Marpissa, about an hour on foot, one of the best short walks in the Cyclades.

What you actually see

• Agia Triada - a marble cathedral of 1830 with twin towers.
• The maze lanes - deliberately confusing streets in white and marble.
• The Byzantine Road - a paved medieval track descending to the east coast.
• The hill setting - terraced slopes with the sea hidden from view.

When to go

Spring and autumn for walking the Byzantine Road in comfort; summer is hot on the exposed sections of the trail. The village keeps some life year-round, unlike the coastal resorts.

Honest expectations

Lefkes is quiet and small, with a handful of tavernas and shops, and can feel sleepy outside the evening. Streets are steep, stepped and hard on knees. Cars must be left at the edge, and buses are infrequent.

Nearby

Prodromos and Marpissa lie at the far end of the walk; Parikia and Naoussa are on the coast.