Geraki

The castle of Geraki was built in 1254 by the Frankish lord Guy de Nivelet on a steep hill above the Laconian plain, and around and below it survive some fifteen Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches, many with frescoes, ranging from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century. Inside the walls stand the church of Agios Georgios with carved marble screens and heraldic reliefs mixing Frankish and Byzantine motifs, and the ruins of the lord's hall. The modern village below has more churches, including Agia Paraskevi and the Evangelistria, whose paintings are among the finest in the region. Compared with Mystras, Geraki receives almost no visitors, and the churches are usually locked, so seeing the interiors takes planning through the local guardian.

What you actually see

• The castle hill - Frankish walls, towers and the ruined hall of 1254.
• Agios Georgios - carved screens and reliefs inside the castle enclosure.
• The village churches - frescoed chapels scattered through the settlement.
• The plain view - Laconia and Taygetus from the ramparts.

When to go

Spring and autumn for climbing and light; the hill is exposed. Visits work best in the morning, when the site guardian is present and more churches can be opened.

Honest expectations

Most churches are locked and access depends on the guardian's schedule, so a visit can be frustrating without a phone call ahead. The castle path is steep and stony. There are few facilities in the village.

Nearby

Sparta and Mystras lie west; Monemvasia is an hour and a quarter southeast.