Monemvasia

From the mainland Monemvasia looks like an empty rock - the town is hidden on the seaward side, invisible until you pass the single gate that gives the place its name (moni emvasia, 'single entrance'). Founded in the 6th century by mainlanders seeking refuge, it grew into a Byzantine trading power whose sweet Malvasia wine carried the town's name across medieval Europe as Malmsey. The lower town is still lived in: vaulted lanes, stone mansions, tiny squares and sea walls with a swimming ladder off the rocks, all car-free because cars physically cannot enter. Above, a zigzag path climbs to the ruined upper town, where the church of Agia Sofia stands at the lip of a sheer drop and the view runs down the Laconian coast. Stay the night - when the day-trippers leave, the rock goes quiet and lamp-lit, and the Middle Ages feel close.

What you actually see

• The gate and lower town - the tunnel entrance opening onto living Byzantine lanes.
• Agia Sofia - the summit church balanced on the cliff edge.
• The sea walls - ramparts, cannon embrasures and the swimming spot off the rocks.
• The upper town ruins - cisterns and shattered mansions in the fortress field.

When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal - summer heat radiates off the rock and the lanes hold it. Book rooms on the rock well ahead; a night here is the whole point.

Honest expectations

Everything moves on foot over steep, polished cobbles - pack light and wear grip, because luggage is carried in by hand or barrow. The climb to the upper town is a genuine sweat in warm weather, and lower-town prices reflect the setting.

Nearby

Gefyra town across the causeway, Elafonisos island's famous sands and the Mani coast beyond.