Naoussa Wine Region

Naoussa became Greece's first appellation of origin in 1971, and its wines are made from a single grape: Xinomavro, whose name means sour-black and whose character, high acid, firm tannin, pale colour and aromas of tomato, olive and dried fruit that soften over a decade, invites the comparison with Barolo's Nebbiolo. Vineyards sit between 150 and 400 metres on the eastern flank of Vermio, where cool nights preserve acidity. Around twenty wineries operate in the appellation, from long-established family estates to newer boutique producers, and most receive visitors for tastings by appointment. Harvest runs late September into October. The town of Naoussa itself sits above a wooded park with waterfalls and springs, and the Vermio slopes above hold ski centres and beech forest.

What you actually see

• The Xinomavro vineyards - terraced slopes on the flank of Vermio.
• The wineries - family estates and boutique producers offering tastings.
• The autumn harvest - picking and pressing from late September.
• The Naoussa park - waterfalls and springs in the wooded gorge below town.

When to go

September and October for harvest activity, spring for green vineyards and comfortable touring. Most wineries need appointments, particularly outside weekends, and few open on Sundays.

Honest expectations

Wineries are spread across the countryside and require a car, which raises the obvious problem with tasting; hiring a driver or joining a tour solves it. Xinomavro is austere when young and divides opinion sharply. English-language tours vary in availability.

Nearby

The School of Aristotle at Mieza is minutes away; Veria and Vergina lie south, Edessa north.