Rkoni Monastery

The Tedzami gorge north of Kaspi is narrow, wooded and largely empty, and part way up it stands the monastery of Rkoni: a seventh-century church, later buildings, a bell tower and monastic remains scattered among trees beside the river. A short distance away a single stone arch crosses the water without mortar, of the medieval type traditionally attributed to the reign of Queen Tamar, and it is still walked across. Further up the gorge are the ruins of a fortress and other churches, reached on a walking route that continues for several hours. It is a popular day walk from Tbilisi and quiet enough on weekdays to feel remote.

What you actually see

• The arched stone bridge - a mortarless medieval span over the Tedzami.
• The seventh-century church - the oldest building in the monastery.
• Ruins in the woods - bell tower and monastic buildings among the trees.
• The gorge walking route - the continuation up toward the fortress.

When to go

May to October; the gorge road is difficult after rain. A day from Tbilisi. Weekends bring walkers from the city. There are no shops in the gorge.

Honest expectations

The road up the gorge is rough and fords the river in places. There are no facilities of any kind. Trail marking is limited. The monastery buildings are ruinous and some are unsafe.

Nearby

Kaspi is south; Tbilisi lies south-east.