Rkoni Monastery

The Tedzami gorge south-west of Kaspi is narrow, wooded and largely empty, and part way up it stands the monastery of Rkoni: a seventh-century church, later buildings, a bell tower and monastic remains scattered among trees beside the river. A short distance away a single stone arch of the eleventh century, built of river stone set in lime and named after Queen Tamar, who by tradition had a summer residence here, crosses the water and is still walked across. Further up the gorge are the ruins of a fortress and other churches, reached on a walking route that continues for several hours. It is a popular day walk from Tbilisi and quiet enough on weekdays to feel remote.

History

The monastery was built in the 7th century AD, probably between 642 and 645, both as a place of prayer and as a lookout against the Arab invasion, with a watchtower over the valley and a fortress at its entrance, on a route linking Shida Kartli with Javakheti, Trialeti and Armenia. Its three-nave basilica of the Assumption dates from the second half of the 7th century, with paintings of the late 10th and 12th centuries, and the gate and a hall chapel were added in the latter half of the 13th century. The Queen Tamar bridge, a semicircular stone arch 12.5 metres long and 2.2 metres wide, was built in the 11th century of river stone set in lime and named after the queen, who was believed to have had a summer residence nearby, and in 1400 Timur's invasion brought destruction to the monastery (Wikipedia, Rkoni Monastery).

The main sights

• The arched stone bridge - an eleventh-century span over the Tedzami.
• The seventh-century church - the oldest building in the monastery.
• Ruins in the woods - bell tower and monastic buildings among the trees.
• The gorge walking route - the continuation up toward the fortress.

When to go

May to October; the gorge road is difficult after rain. A day from Tbilisi. Weekends bring walkers from the city. There are no shops in the gorge.

Things to know

The road up the gorge is rough and fords the river in places. There are no facilities of any kind. Trail marking is limited. The monastery buildings are ruinous and some are unsafe.

Nearby

Kaspi is north-east; Tbilisi lies south-east.

Key facts