Hemis Monastery

Hemis was refounded in 1672 under royal patronage and belongs to the Drukpa lineage, and it is the largest monastic institution in Ladakh, built into a side gorge off the Indus so that it is invisible from the valley, which is often credited with sparing it from raids. Its museum holds thangkas, gold statues and a large copper-gilt image, and a thangka said to be the largest in Ladakh is unrolled once every twelve years. The Hemis festival in June or July marks Padmasambhava's birth with cham, masked dances performed in the courtyard by monks in brocade costume over two days.

History

A monastery stood at Hemis before the 11th century, and it was re-established in 1672 by the Ladakhi king Sengge Namgyal. In 1894 the Russian journalist Nicolas Notovitch claimed that its library held an unknown gospel describing travels of Jesus in India during his "lost years", and Swami Abhedananda said he read the same manuscript on a visit in 1921 (Wikipedia, Hemis Monastery).

What to look for

• The hidden gorge setting - the monastery invisible from the Indus valley.
• The Hemis festival - two days of masked cham dancing in the courtyard.
• The museum - thangkas, statues and ritual objects.
• The giant thangka - unrolled once every twelve years.

When to go

June to September; the festival falls in June or July on the Tibetan calendar and is the busiest time by far, requiring accommodation booked in Leh well ahead. Winter access is possible but cold.

What to expect

Festival crowds are dense and photographers occupy the best positions early. Photography inside the museum is prohibited. The site is at over 3,600 metres and altitude affects new arrivals.

Nearby

Hemis National Park lies above; Thiksey monastery is northwest.

Key facts