Ateni Sioni Church

Ateni Sioni sits on a rock above the Tana river south of Gori, a domed church of the seventh century built on the four-apse plan of Jvari at Mtskheta and executed in fine ashlar with carved reliefs, including hunting scenes and figures, on its exterior. Inside is a cycle of wall painting from the eleventh century, damaged but substantial, along with early Georgian inscriptions scratched into the walls by visitors many centuries ago. The valley around it grows the grapes for atenuri, a lightly sparkling wine made only here, and it is planted with vines and orchards, which makes the drive up from Gori part of the visit.

What you actually see

• A seventh-century four-apse church - built on the plan of Jvari.
• Carved reliefs on the exterior - hunting scenes and figures in the stone.
• Eleventh-century wall painting - the fresco cycle inside.
• The atenuri wine valley - vines and orchards along the Tana.

When to go

April to October; the valley is at its best in autumn at harvest. Two hours from Gori. Modest dress is required. The church may be locked outside services.

Honest expectations

Access depends on finding the church open, which is not guaranteed. Interior light is poor and frescoes are hard to make out. The road is narrow. There is no interpretation on site.

Nearby

Gori is north; Uplistsikhe lies east.