Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Saint-Jean sits at the foot of the Roncevaux pass, which is what the name means, and for centuries it has been where pilgrims gathered before the crossing into Spain. It is now the usual starting point of the Camino Frances: a pilgrim office on the Rue de la Citadelle issues the credential, the passport stamped along the route, and the first stage over the Napoleon route to Roncesvalles is among the hardest of the whole way, climbing about twelve hundred metres. The old town is pink sandstone inside walls, with the Porte Saint-Jacques at the top and a citadel above it. The Nive runs under an old bridge below.

What you actually see

• The pilgrim office - where credentials are issued for the Camino Frances.
• The Rue de la Citadelle - the walled street pilgrims walk down each morning.
• The Porte Saint-Jacques - the gate arrivals enter from the north.
• The citadel - a fortification above the town with a valley view.

When to go

April to October, the Camino season; May, June and September are busiest for departures. The Napoleon route over the pass closes roughly November to March for snow and has claimed lives.

Honest expectations

Accommodation fills with pilgrims and can be hard to find without booking. The town is small and its life is the Camino. The first stage into Spain is genuinely demanding and the winter route closure is enforced.

Nearby

The Spanish border is over the pass; Bayonne lies north.