Speos Artemidos

The Greeks called it the cave of Artemis, identifying the local lion-headed goddess Pakhet with their own; the Arabic name means the stable of Antar. It is a small temple cut into the rock at the mouth of a ravine, begun by Hatshepsut and continued by Seti I, with a columned portico carved from the cliff face and an inner chamber. Its importance is one text: a long dedicatory inscription across the architrave in which Hatshepsut describes restoring temples that had fallen into ruin and refers to the period of Hyksos rule, one of the very few Egyptian accounts of that time. Her name was later erased in places and Seti's cut over it. A second smaller speos lies further along the same ravine.

What you actually see

• The rock-cut portico - columns carved from the living cliff.
• Hatshepsut's dedicatory inscription - her account of restoring the temples.
• Erasures and recarving - later kings cutting over her name.
• A second smaller speos - further up the same ravine.

When to go

October to April. One hour, added to a Beni Hasan visit since the two share a ticket and a short walk. Mornings for light into the portico. Almost nobody comes here.

Honest expectations

The walk from Beni Hasan is over rough ground in full sun. The interior is small and dark and a torch helps. The inscription is high on the architrave and hard to see clearly. Access depends on a guard being available and willing to walk over.

Nearby

Beni Hasan is a short walk north along the cliff; Minya is up the valley.