Tell el-Amarna

Akhenaten founded Akhetaten on virgin ground in the fifth year of his reign, built a whole capital there for his new solar religion, and within about fifteen years of his death it was abandoned and the stone carried off. That short life is what makes it valuable: the city was occupied once and briefly, so the plan is uncomplicated by later building, and excavation has recovered a clear picture of palaces, temples open to the sky rather than roofed and dark, workshops including the one where the Nefertiti bust was found, and ordinary housing. Boundary stelae cut into the cliffs mark the limits Akhenaten set. Rock tombs on the north and south cliffs hold reliefs of the royal family and the city, and the royal tomb lies in a wadi behind.

What you actually see

• The city plan on open ground - palaces and temples laid out on bare desert.
• Boundary stelae - the limits cut into the cliffs by royal decree.
• North and south tombs - reliefs of the royal family and city scenes.
• The royal wadi tomb - Akhenaten's own burial place inland.

When to go

October to April. A full day, since the site is very spread out and the tomb groups are kilometres apart. Early start for the tombs and cooler walking. Very few visitors at any time.

Honest expectations

The city area is at foundation level and needs a plan and imagination. Distances are large and a vehicle within the site is necessary. The royal tomb is a long drive up a wadi and often closed. Travel arrangements in Middle Egypt can involve escorts. Little shade anywhere.

Nearby

Tuna el-Gebel and Hermopolis are across the river; Mallawi is the nearest town.