Phoenice

Phoenice stands on a long hill above the Bistrica plain near Saranda and was the capital of the Chaonians and, according to Polybius, the wealthiest city in Epirus, the place where the Peace of Phoenice was agreed in 205 BC ending the First Macedonian War. The site covers a large area with a wall circuit, a theatre cut into the northern slope, a temple, houses, cisterns and a later basilica, excavated by Italian and Albanian missions over many decades. The hill gives a wide view over the plain toward Butrint and the sea. It is far less visited than Butrint a short distance away and has correspondingly little infrastructure, which for some visitors is the appeal.

What you actually see

• A theatre in the northern slope - the auditorium cut into the hill.
• A long wall circuit - the fortification around the ridge.
• Cisterns and house foundations - the excavated fabric of the city.
• The Bistrica plain view - the country toward Butrint and the sea.

When to go

April to October. Two hours. Mornings for temperature; there is little shade. It is quiet at all times, unlike Butrint nearby. The site can be combined with Butrint in one day.

Honest expectations

The site is at foundation level and interpretation is limited. There is little shade. The theatre is partly overgrown. Opening hours are loose and the ticket office is sometimes unstaffed. It suffers by comparison with Butrint.

Nearby

Saranda is west; Butrint lies south along the coast.