Rhumsiki

In the Mandara Mountains along the Nigerian border, erosion stripped ancient volcanoes to their throats - and left Rhumsiki: a skyline of basalt towers, Kapsiki Peak's 1,224-metre plug the sharpest, spiking from terraced millet hills in a composition that made the village Cameroon's postcard long ago. The classic visit walks the rim paths at dawn and dusk when the towers go violet, threads the villages between - where Kapsiki smiths, weavers and the famous crab sorcerer keep their traditions for visitors and themselves - and sleeps at the small lodges whose terraces face the spectacle. Andre Gide called the landscape among the world's most beautiful; the light at sunset still argues his case.

History

Local tradition says Rhumsiki was settled by animist peoples, the Kirdi, who fled the Fulani advance in the 18th century and took refuge in this rugged country. They have lived here ever since, farming and weaving the rock towers of the Mandara Mountains into their beliefs, and André Gide called the surroundings one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world (Wikipedia, Rhumsiki).

What you'll find

• Kapsiki Peak - the great basalt needle above the village.
• The dawn and dusk rims - the towers in violet light.
• The Kapsiki villages - smiths, weavers and terraced millet farms.
• The crab sorcerer - the divination tradition the village keeps.

When to go

November to February is dry, dust-hazed and cool at night - the harmattan softens the light attractively; the rains green the terraces dramatically but muddy the paths.

Before you go

Trips run with local operators who know the day's picture. Village visits work on guide arrangements and fees agreed upfront; the divination is a paid tradition, enjoyed as such. Facilities are simple lodges.

Nearby

Mokolo's market, Maroua's crafts and the wider Mandara village country.