Rhumsiki

In the Mandara Mountains along the Nigerian border, erosion stripped ancient volcanoes to their throats - and left Rhumsiki: a skyline of basalt towers, Kapsiki Peak's 1,224-metre plug the sharpest, spiking from terraced millet hills in a composition that made the village Cameroon's postcard long ago. The classic visit walks the rim paths at dawn and dusk when the towers go violet, threads the villages between - where Kapsiki smiths, weavers and the famous crab sorcerer keep their traditions for visitors and themselves - and sleeps at the small lodges whose terraces face the spectacle. Andre Gide called the landscape among the world's most beautiful; the light at sunset still argues his case.

What you actually see

• Kapsiki Peak - the great basalt needle above the village.
• The dawn and dusk rims - the towers in violet light.
• The Kapsiki villages - smiths, weavers and terraced millet farms.
• The crab sorcerer - the divination tradition the village keeps.

When to go

November to February is dry, dust-hazed and cool at night - the harmattan softens the light attractively; the rains green the terraces dramatically but muddy the paths.

Honest expectations

Check current travel guidance for the Far North when planning - conditions vary by period, and trips run with local operators who know the day's picture. Village visits work on guide arrangements and fees agreed upfront; the divination is a paid tradition, enjoyed as such. Facilities are simple lodges.

Nearby

Mokolo's market, Maroua's crafts and the wider Mandara village country.