Phnom Krom

Phnom Krom is a hill rising from the flat land where Siem Reap meets the Tonle Sap, and on top stand three sandstone towers built around the year 900 under Yasovarman I, dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. They are heavily weathered, with much of the carving gone, and a modern pagoda shares the summit. The reason to climb is the outlook: the lake spreading south, the floating villages on it, the flooded forest, and the plain running back to Angkor, with the difference between wet and dry season visible in how far the water reaches. The climb is a road or a steep path of some twenty minutes. Sunset here is an alternative to the crowded Angkor viewpoints.

What you actually see

• Three weathered towers - the ninth-century shrines on the summit.
• The Tonle Sap view - the lake, floating villages and flooded forest.
• The seasonal shoreline - how far the water reaches at different times.
• The modern pagoda - the working temple sharing the hilltop.

When to go

November to March; the lake is at its fullest right after the rains around October and November, and much reduced by April, which changes the view completely. Late afternoon for sunset over the water.

Honest expectations

The temples are badly eroded and there is little carving left. The climb is steep in heat. The Angkor pass is checked here, which surprises people who come only for the view. Haze often softens the lake panorama.

Nearby

The Tonle Sap floating villages lie south; Siem Reap is north.