Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, Phitsanulok

Phitsanulok lost most of its old town to fire in the 1950s, and what survived is the temple locals call Wat Yai. Inside sits Phra Buddha Chinnarat, a seated bronze cast in the fourteenth century and regarded by many Thais as the most beautiful Buddha image in the country. The distinguishing feature is the flame-shaped halo that frames the figure, its edges curling out into naga heads, and the way the gilding catches the low light of the wihan. Copies stand in temples across Thailand, including the marble temple in Bangkok. The compound also holds a tall prang, a cloister of lesser images, and a busy market of amulets and offerings along its edge.

What you actually see

• Phra Buddha Chinnarat - the seated bronze in its flame-shaped halo.
• The wihan - low, dark and mother-of-pearl inlaid at the doors.
• The prang - the Khmer-style tower behind the main hall.
• The amulet stalls - rows of sellers along the temple's river side.

When to go

Early morning is the only time the wihan is calm; by mid-morning coach groups arrive and the floor in front of the image is full of people kneeling and photographing. November to February is the cool season. Phitsanulok is a natural overnight stop between Bangkok and Sukhothai, so half a day here fits most itineraries.

Honest expectations

The hall is small and gets genuinely crowded, with a queue shuffling past rather than sitting. Photography rules are enforced and shoes come off at the door. Strict dress standards apply. Outside the temple, Phitsanulok is a rebuilt provincial city with little to hold you, and the surrounding market pushes hard on souvenirs.

Nearby

The Nan River promenade and night market, with Sukhothai an hour west.