Wat Phra That Mae Yen

Wat Phra That Mae Yen sits on a hill immediately east of Pai, and the large white seated Buddha on its terrace faces back across the valley toward the town - which is why it is visible from most of Pai and why the terrace is where people go for sunset. The climb is 353 steps up a naga-flanked stairway, taking ten to fifteen minutes at a steady pace, or there is a road for motorbikes and cars. The temple itself is old in foundation but the white Buddha and much of what stands is recent. From the top the whole Pai valley is laid out - the town, the river, the rice fields and the hills that ring it - and in the cool season morning mist fills the floor of it. It is free. Pai has a substantial backpacker scene and the terrace at sunset reflects that; people who want it quiet go at dawn instead.

What you actually see

• The white Buddha - seated on the terrace facing back over the valley.
• The 353 steps - the naga stairway up from the road below.
• The valley view - Pai, the river and the ringing hills.
• The morning mist - filling the valley floor in the cool season.

When to go

November to February. Sunset is the popular time and it is crowded; dawn gives the mist and almost nobody. Fifteen minutes up the steps, an hour in total.

Honest expectations

353 unshaded steps, or drive up. Crowded at sunset with Pai's visitors. The temple is modest and mostly modern - the view is the reason to climb. Free with donation boxes. Dress code applies.

Nearby

Pai town is across the river; Pai Canyon and the hot springs are south-east.