Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is the elegant and passionate capital of Argentina, a grand, European-flavoured metropolis often called the Paris of South America. Its leafy boulevards, belle-epoque palaces and grand cafes sit alongside distinctive neighbourhoods: the pink presidential palace on the Plaza de Mayo, the colourful houses of La Boca, the bohemian air of San Telmo, and the grand cemetery of Recoleta, all pulsing with tango, football and a love of steak and late nights.

What you actually see

• The Plaza de Mayo - the historic square and the pink Casa Rosada.
• La Boca and Caminito - the colourful houses and street tango.
• Recoleta Cemetery - the grand tombs, including Eva Peron's.
• San Telmo - the bohemian quarter of antiques and Sunday markets.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the most pleasant weather; summer, December to February, is hot and many locals leave, while winter is mild. The city comes alive late, with dinner from nine and tango and nightlife into the small hours.

Honest expectations

It is a huge city with real economic ups and downs, so a few areas call for caution, especially parts of La Boca after dark, where staying on the tourist streets is advised. The famously volatile economy makes cash, currency and prices confusing, so get local advice. Its rewards are the atmosphere, food and culture more than blockbuster sights.

Nearby

The Tigre delta and the estancia ranches of the pampas are nearby; Uruguay is across the river.