Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is the elegant and passionate capital of Argentina, a grand, European-flavoured metropolis often called the Paris of South America. Its leafy boulevards, belle-epoque palaces and grand cafes sit alongside distinctive neighbourhoods: the pink presidential palace on the Plaza de Mayo, the colourful houses of La Boca, the bohemian air of San Telmo, and the grand cemetery of Recoleta, all pulsing with tango, football and a love of steak and late nights.

History

Juan Díaz de Solís, sailing for Spain, was the first European to reach the Río de la Plata in 1516, and on 2 February 1536 an expedition under Pedro de Mendoza founded the first settlement, in today's San Telmo, naming it after Our Lady of Bonaria, patron of Sardinia, the Holy Mary of the Fair Winds whom sailors invoked; attacks by the indigenous people drove the settlers out, and the site was abandoned in 1542. Juan de Garay, sailing down the Paraná from Asunción, founded the permanent city on 11 June 1580 as Santísima Trinidad, with its port Santa María de los Buenos Aires, and it lived from trade, hampered by Spain's rule that goods came the long way round by convoy and through Lima, which fed a thriving informal trade. British forces attacked the city twice, and in 1806 an army from Montevideo under Santiago de Liniers defeated the first invasion (Wikipedia, Buenos Aires).

What you'll find

• The Plaza de Mayo - the historic square and the pink Casa Rosada.
• La Boca and Caminito - the colourful houses and street tango.
• Recoleta Cemetery - the grand tombs, including Eva Peron's.
• San Telmo - the bohemian quarter of antiques and Sunday markets.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the most pleasant weather; summer, December to February, is hot and many locals leave, while winter is mild. The city comes alive late, with dinner from nine and tango and nightlife into the small hours.

Practical notes

It is a huge city with real economic ups and downs, so a few areas call for caution, especially parts of La Boca after dark, where staying on the tourist streets is advised. The famously volatile economy makes cash, currency and prices confusing, so get local advice. Its rewards are the atmosphere, food and culture more than blockbuster sights.

Nearby

The Tigre delta and the estancia ranches of the pampas are nearby; Uruguay is across the river.

Key facts