Yazd

Yazd, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the edge of Iran's central deserts, has been inhabited since antiquity and is one of the most atmospheric cities on earth, a golden labyrinth of mud-brick built in perfect harmony with its harsh climate. Its old town is a maze of winding, shaded alleys, crowned by a distinctive skyline of badgirs, the tall wind towers that catch the breeze to cool the houses below. A historic centre of the Zoroastrian religion, Yazd also holds fire temples and ancient towers of silence.

History

Archaeological finds 12 kilometres north of the city suggest the area has been settled since the Achaemenid period, and some scholars link the name to Issatis, a town Pliny the Elder mentions in the Parthian Empire. Yazd grew in importance under the Sasanians: Yazdegerd I, who reigned from 399 to 420, set up a mint here, and the Tarikh-i Yazd of 1441 says the city was refounded by Yazdegerd II. After the Muslim conquest many Zoroastrians moved here from neighbouring provinces, and by paying a levy the city was allowed to remain Zoroastrian, Islam becoming dominant only gradually. Its remote desert setting kept it largely clear of war, so that it became a refuge during the Mongol invasion; Marco Polo visited in 1272 and praised its silk weaving, it was briefly the capital of the Muzaffarid dynasty in the 14th century and held out against a siege by the Injuids in 1350-1351, and since 2017 its historic city has been a World Heritage Site (Wikipedia, Yazd).

What's there

• The old town - the maze of mud-brick lanes and rooftops.
• The wind towers - the badgirs of the desert skyline.
• The Jameh Mosque - the towering tiled portal and minarets.
• The Zoroastrian sites - the fire temple and towers of silence.

When to go

Spring and autumn, when the desert climate is mild; summers are scorching and winter nights cold. Sunset from a rooftop cafe over the mud-brick skyline and wind towers is unforgettable, and the old town is magical to wander in the cool of evening.

What to expect

It is a desert city, so summer heat is intense and best avoided, and Yazd's charm is in slow, atmospheric wandering and its unique architecture rather than blockbuster monuments. As across Iran, practical planning around visas, dress code and cash is needed. The mud-brick maze, wind towers, rooftop views and Zoroastrian heritage, though, make it one of the country's most enchanting places.

Nearby

The mud-brick villages and deserts of central Iran surround it.

Key facts