Yerevan

Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, older than Rome, yet today a warm, vibrant and eminently walkable city. Rebuilt in the twentieth century largely from local rose-coloured volcanic tuff stone, which gives it the nickname the Pink City, it is a place of grand squares, leafy avenues, a lively cafe culture and buzzing nightlife, all set on a plateau with the majestic, snow-capped biblical Mount Ararat, symbol of the nation, rising across the border.

What you actually see

• The Cascade - the giant sculptured stairway and art centre.
• Republic Square - the grand central square and its fountains.
• The views of Ararat - the majestic biblical peak across the border.
• The cafe culture and Genocide Memorial - the buzzing centre and the solemn memorial.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; summer is hot and the city empties to cooler retreats, while autumn brings the harvest and pleasant days. Mount Ararat is clearest in the morning, often veiled in haze later in the day.

Honest expectations

It is a warm, sociable, easygoing city whose appeal is the atmosphere, cafe culture and hospitality rather than a wealth of monuments; the greatest sights, the ancient monasteries, lie in the countryside beyond. The solemn Armenian Genocide Memorial and museum are a moving, important visit. It is a comfortable, welcoming base for exploring the country's spectacular churches and landscapes.

Nearby

The temple of Garni, the monasteries and the whole country are within reach.