Café Tortoni

Café Tortoni opened in 1858 and moved to its present premises on Avenida de Mayo soon after, and it has been serving continuously ever since, which makes it the oldest café in the country and one of the notable ones in the world. The interior has changed little: dark wood, marble-topped tables, bevelled mirrors, stained glass in the ceiling and busts and paintings of the writers, musicians and politicians who spent years here, among them Borges, the tango singer Carlos Gardel and the pianist Arthur Rubinstein. It is protected as a notable bar of the city. Coffee with churros is the classic order, and a small basement room hosts tango performances in the evening.

What you actually see

• The historic interior - dark wood, marble tables, mirrors and stained glass.
• The literary memorabilia - busts and paintings of former regulars.
• The tango room - the basement space with evening performances.
• The classic order - coffee with chocolate and churros at a marble table.

When to go

Year-round; queues form outside through the middle of the day, and early morning or late evening are easier. Tango shows run nightly and require booking. The café closes on some holidays.

Honest expectations

Tortoni trades heavily on its history: prices are well above other cafés, service can be brisk, and the queue is often long. The food is ordinary. It is worth it as a piece of the city rather than as a meal.

Nearby

Palacio Barolo is along the same avenue; Plaza de Mayo lies a few blocks east.