Al-Mukalla

Al-Mukalla strings its whitewashed front along the Arabian Sea where the Hadhramaut's ochre cliffs meet the water - the region's harbour capital, grown on fishing, frankincense-era trade and the Indian Ocean connections that sent Hadhrami merchants to Java and back with fortunes and architectural ideas. The old quarter's tall houses wear carved doors and pastel trims along the khor's curve, the fish market lands tuna and kingfish at dawn theatre, and the corniche evenings - families, tea, the cliffs going rose - carry the easy maritime culture the coast has always kept.

What you actually see

• The corniche front - whitewashed merchant houses on the khor.
• The dawn fish market - tuna landings at full voice.
• The carved doors - Hadhrami craftsmanship street by street.
• The cliff backdrop - ochre walls turning rose at dusk.

When to go

October to March for the coast's kind months. Check current travel advice before planning, and arrange the trip through specialist local operators.

Honest expectations

Travel here is arranged in advance and possible only when conditions allow. In town: conservative courtesy and permission-first photography, especially at the market; the pleasures are atmosphere, seafood and light rather than monuments.

Nearby

The Hadhramaut valley's tower cities inland - Shibam's fame first.