Sofia

Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, is a laid-back, green and increasingly stylish city that wears its long history lightly, its centre layering Roman ruins, Ottoman mosques, a synagogue and Orthodox churches within a few blocks, all set beneath the ski slopes of Mount Vitosha. Its landmark is the magnificent Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a vast neo-Byzantine church crowned with golden domes, and its yellow-cobbled boulevards, leafy parks, cafes and mineral springs make it a pleasant, unhurried European capital.

What you actually see

• Alexander Nevsky Cathedral - the vast golden-domed cathedral.
• The layered centre - the Roman ruins, mosque, synagogue and churches together.
• Boyana Church - the UNESCO church of exquisite medieval frescoes nearby.
• Mount Vitosha - the mountain rising right at the city's edge.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; the city is pleasant and walkable, with Mount Vitosha offering hiking in summer and skiing in winter right on its doorstep. It is a relaxed capital best enjoyed strolling its boulevards and cafes.

Honest expectations

Sofia is a pleasant, low-key capital rather than a blockbuster city, so its appeal is the relaxed atmosphere, the layered history in a compact centre, the greenery and good value rather than must-see monuments. Some areas still show a post-communist grittiness. The UNESCO Boyana Church with its frescoes, on the outskirts, is a worthwhile trip. It is affordable and easygoing.

Nearby

The Rila Monastery, Mount Vitosha and Plovdiv are within reach.