Wat Phra That Cho Hae

Wat Phra That Cho Hae stands on a low hill east of Phrae and holds a relic said to have been enshrined here in the fourteenth century. The chedi is around thirty-three metres, covered in gilded brass plate, and the name comes from the practice that defines it: cho hae refers to a satin cloth, historically imported from China, which is wrapped around the chedi as an offering - the wrapping is renewed and the cloth is a constant feature. It is the birth-year temple for those born in the year of the tiger, who come to make merit here, one of twelve such temples across the north. The viharn holds Phra Chao Than Chai, a Buddha image credited with granting wishes, particularly for children. The temple's annual festival falls in the fourth lunar month. Phrae is a quiet province off the main routes, and the temple is busy with Thai worshippers rather than foreign visitors.

What you actually see

• The wrapped chedi - thirty-three metres in gilded brass, bound in satin cloth.
• Phra Chao Than Chai - the image petitioned for children and wishes.
• The tiger-year pilgrimage - one of the north's twelve birth-year temples.
• The naga approach - the serpent stairway up to the compound.

When to go

November to February; the annual festival in the fourth lunar month, around March, brings the largest crowds. An hour covers it.

Honest expectations

Busy with Thai worshippers rather than sightseers. Free, with donation and offering sales throughout. Little English interpretation. Temple dress code applies.

Nearby

Phrae town and its teak mansions are west; Wat Phra That Chom Chaeng is close.