Phrae Teak Mansions

Phrae was at the centre of the northern teak trade from the later nineteenth century, when British, Danish and Chinese firms and local families took concessions on the forests, and the money built houses. Ban Wongburi is the best known: a two-storey pink and white mansion of 1897 built for a family connected to the Phrae ruling house, in a Thai-European style with lace-cut gingerbread fretwork along every eave and gable, and it is open as a museum with original furniture. Khum Chao Luang, the last Phrae ruler's residence of 1892, is now a museum with a cellar that was used to hold prisoners. Vongburi, Prathup Chai and other houses stand around the old town within its earth ramparts. The teak that paid for them is largely gone; commercial logging in natural forest was banned nationally in 1989 after decades of depletion, and Phrae has been a quiet province since.

What you actually see

• Ban Wongburi - the 1897 pink mansion with gingerbread fretwork, open as a museum.
• Khum Chao Luang - the 1892 ruler's residence, with its prisoner cellar.
• The old town - houses within the surviving earth ramparts.
• The teak history - the trade that built them and the ban that ended it.

When to go

November to February. Houses keep museum hours and some close on certain days. Half a day covers the old town on foot or by bicycle.

Honest expectations

Not all houses are open - several are private and exterior only. Opening hours are limited and vary. Ticketed individually rather than by a combined pass. Little English interpretation.

Nearby

Wat Phra That Cho Hae is east; Phae Mueang Phi earth pillars are north-east.