Txakoli

Txakoli is made mainly from Hondarrabi Zuri grapes on steep slopes near the Atlantic, picked early so the acidity stays high, producing a wine of low alcohol, sharp green-apple character and a slight natural prickle. It was a local drink of little reputation until three protected designations were created between 1989 and 2001, for Getaria, Bizkaia and Alava, and quality rose sharply. The pour is part of it: it is poured from arm's length into a wide flat glass to release the carbon dioxide, a technique bartenders perform quickly and which visitors are usually told not to attempt. It is drunk young and cold, with pintxos and above all with grilled fish, which is what the coast serves.

What you actually see

• The high pour - wine dropped from arm's length into a flat glass.
• The coastal vineyards - vines trained high on steep Atlantic slopes.
• The three designations - Getaria, Bizkaia and Alava appellations.
• The pintxo pairing - the standard accompaniment in Basque bars.

When to go

Year-round in bars; September for the harvest, when the coastal wineries around Getaria and Bakio are working. Winery visits generally need booking and many are small family operations.

Honest expectations

It is sharp and low in alcohol, which some find thin rather than refreshing. Quality varies considerably between producers, and the cheapest versions are austere. The theatrical pour is done by staff and is not an invitation to try.

Nearby

Getaria and Zarautz are the coastal heart; the Alava designation lies inland toward Vitoria.