Illes Medes

The Medes are seven limestone islets about a kilometre off L'Estartit, geologically a continuation of the Montgri massif on shore, and their waters have been protected since 1983 after decades of spearfishing and trawling had stripped them. The recovery has been well documented: grouper populations returned, and the reserve now holds dense fish life, red gorgonian fans, coral, caves and tunnels through the rock, making it the best-known dive site on the Spanish Mediterranean coast. Diving is capped by a permit system with daily limits. Glass-bottom boats and snorkelling trips run from L'Estartit for non-divers, and kayaks circle the islands. Landing on the islets is prohibited to protect a large gull colony.

What you actually see

• The gorgonian walls - red sea fans on the deeper rock faces.
• The grouper - large fish that returned after protection.
• The caves and tunnels - swim-throughs in the limestone.
• The gull colony - a large breeding population on the closed islets.

When to go

May to October for water temperature and visibility, with September and October usually the clearest. Dive permits are limited daily and must be booked through licensed centres. Winter closes most operations.

Honest expectations

Diving requires a permit obtained through a centre, and daily numbers are capped. Landing on the islands is forbidden. Boat trips are cancelled in wind, and L'Estartit itself is a developed resort.

Nearby

L'Estartit and the Montgri castle are on shore; Empuries and Pals lie south.