Hongdo Island

Hongdo is a small island at the western edge of Dadohaehaesang national park, a couple of hours by fast ferry beyond Mokpo, and its name refers to the reddish tint of its rock. The island is essentially a ridge of cliffs, arches, sea stacks and caves dropping straight into the water, and the accepted way to see it is the boat circuit that leaves the harbour and works its way around the whole coast in a couple of hours, threading between the stacks where the swell allows. Because the island is protected, walking is limited to marked paths and the two small villages, and the interior is closed. Ferries are cancelled outright in rough weather, often enough to plan around.

What you actually see

• The boat circuit - the two-hour trip around the island past the arches and stacks.
• The red cliffs - the rock faces that give the island its name, strongest in low sun.
• The village harbour - the small settlement where the ferries and tour boats tie up.
• The sea stacks - the towers and arches standing off the shore.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn have the calmest seas and clearest light; the low sun of morning and evening brings out the colour in the rock. Summer is the busiest season and typhoon risk runs from July into September. Winter crossings are frequently cancelled. Always allow a spare day at the end of the trip.

Honest expectations

Getting here is a commitment: a long trip to Mokpo, then a ferry that rolls badly in any swell, and boats that stop running when the wind gets up, which can leave you on the island or unable to reach it. Accommodation and food on Hongdo are limited and basic for the price. If the boat circuit is cancelled, there is very little else to do.

Nearby

Heuksando lies on the same ferry route, and the Mokpo waterfront is the mainland gateway.