Atauro Island

Atauro sits about thirty kilometres north of Dili in deep water, and surveys published by Conservation International recorded an average reef fish species count higher than anywhere else previously measured - a headline that put the island on the diving map. The reefs drop off steeply close to shore, so much of the diving and snorkelling is straight off the beach. Ashore, the island is mountainous and dry with a few thousand residents, and tourism has grown through community-run eco-lodges that put income into villages rather than outside operators.

What you actually see

• Reef diving and snorkelling - steep drop-offs directly off the beaches.
• Community eco-lodges - village-run accommodation on the east coast.
• The island interior - mountain walks and villages above the coast.
• Dolphins and whales - the deep channel crossing between Dili and Atauro.

When to go

The dry season from May to November brings the calmest crossings and clearest water; whale and dolphin sightings in the channel are best from around October to December. Ferries run on a limited schedule, with a faster boat service on most days.

Honest expectations

The ferry is slow and basic and the fast boat sells out; both are weather-dependent. Accommodation is simple - solar power, bucket showers in places, and limited food choice. Diving is excellent but operators are few and equipment should be checked. Fresh water is scarce on the island, so use is restricted. Bring cash; there are no reliable ATMs.

Nearby

Dili across the channel, and the dive sites along Timor's north coast.