Changgyeonggung Palace

Changgyeonggung was built in the fifteenth century as a residence for dowager queens and became the domestic quarter of the Joseon court - less ceremonial than Gyeongbokgung, less designed than Changdeokgung, and today by far the least crowded of the five palaces. Its main hall, Myeongjeongjeon, is the oldest surviving throne hall in Korea and faces east rather than south, unusual and a consequence of the ground. Behind the halls the ground opens into gardens with Chundangji, a pond in two parts, and the Daeonsil, a greenhouse of iron and glass built in 1909, when the grounds were turned into a park with a zoo and a botanical garden. The zoo and garden moved out to Seoul Grand Park in 1983 and the palace was restored. It began as Suganggung, built by King Sejong for his father, and took its present name when King Seongjong enlarged it in 1483. A gate at the back connects directly into Changdeokgung's grounds, and the combined ticket covers both.

What to look for

• Myeongjeongjeon - the oldest throne hall in the country.
• Chundangji pond - the two-part pond in the rear garden.
• The 1909 greenhouse - the iron and glass Daeonsil, from the years the grounds were a park.
• The Changdeokgung link - the gate through to the next palace.

When to go

April for cherry round the pond, late October and November for colour. Weekday mornings are genuinely quiet, which is this palace's advantage.

Good to know

It is smaller and plainer than Gyeongbokgung - visitors expecting grandeur go elsewhere. Some buildings are closed. The Changdeokgung connection needs the combined ticket bought in advance.

Nearby

Changdeokgung is through the rear gate; Jongmyo shrine is south and Daehangno east.

Key facts