Bongjeongsa Temple

Bongjeongsa is a small temple on the slopes of Cheondeungsan, and it would be little known outside Andong were it not for one building. During repairs to Geungnakjeon in the 1970s a record was found in the roof frame describing an earlier restoration in 1363, which means the hall itself is older still, and it is generally cited as the oldest wooden structure in the country. It is a plain rectangle with heavy exposed brackets and almost no painting, and it stands on the same terrace as the larger, brighter Daeungjeon, so two eras of carpentry sit side by side. Seven mountain monasteries were listed together in 2018 and this is one of them.

History

The temple is traditionally said to have been founded by the monk Uisang in 672, in the 12th year of King Munmu of Silla, but an inscription found during a restoration of Geungnakjeon names his disciple Neungin Daedeok as its founder. The last major reconstruction took place in 1363, with renovations in 1625 and 1972, and Geungnakjeon is counted the oldest wooden building in Korea; with 10 buildings at the main temple and nine more at two sub-temples, Bongjeongsa is the largest temple in Andong, and Queen Elizabeth II visited it on her trip to Korea in 1999 (Wikipedia, Bongjeongsa).

What's there

• Geungnakjeon - the plain hall usually dated as Korea's oldest wooden building.
• Daeungjeon - the painted main hall on the same terrace, for contrast.
• The bracket sets - the exposed timber joinery carrying both roofs.
• Yeongsanam - the small hermitage a short walk above the temple.

When to go

Autumn is the best time, for the trees along the approach and for the low light on bare timber. Buses from Andong are infrequent and stop early in the evening, so plan the return before you go. Mornings are quiet. The temple is small enough that two hours covers it, including the walk up to the hermitage.

Practical notes

The attraction is architectural and quiet, and if old joinery does not interest you the visit will feel thin. There is no grand setting, no famous statue and little English explanation. Buses are sparse enough that a taxi from Andong is often the practical choice. Halls are looked at from the terrace rather than entered.

Nearby

Andong is half an hour east; Dosan Seowon and Hahoe village are the other sites in the area.

Key facts