Belgrade and Kalemegdan

Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, is one of the liveliest and most characterful cities in the Balkans, a resilient place fought over and rebuilt through the ages, now buzzing with energy, cafes, art and a legendary nightlife. Its crowning glory is the great Kalemegdan fortress, an ancient citadel set dramatically on a bluff at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, its ramparts and park offering sweeping views, while below spread the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija and the floating river clubs.

What you actually see

• Kalemegdan Fortress - the great citadel and park over the river confluence.
• Skadarlija - the bohemian, cobbled cafe-and-tavern quarter.
• The nightlife - the floating river clubs, or splavovi, and bars.
• The old town and St Sava - the streets and the vast Temple of Saint Sava.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; the riverside and fortress are lovely in the warm months, and the nightlife thrives year-round, moving to the floating river clubs in summer. Belgrade is a city that comes alive after dark.

Honest expectations

Belgrade is gritty and energetic rather than picture-perfect, its charm the atmosphere, warmth and nightlife rather than pristine old-town beauty, with its turbulent history visible in a mix of architecture and some scars. It is affordable and welcoming. Its famous nightlife and riverside energy, the fortress and the bohemian quarter are the draw for a lively, characterful city break.

Nearby

Novi Sad, the Danube and the monasteries of Serbia are within reach.