Zemun

Zemun stood on the Habsburg side of the Danube frontier while Belgrade stood on the Ottoman side, and it grew as a separate town with central European architecture, a different street pattern and its own character, which it has kept despite being absorbed into the city in the twentieth century. The Gardoš hill above the old centre carries a millennium tower built in 1896, and the climb to it through steep lanes of low houses is the walk everyone does, with a view over the river and the city from the top. Below, the quay along the Danube is lined with fish restaurants and floating raft bars, and the old market square still functions. It feels distinctly unlike central Belgrade, which is the reason to go.

What you actually see

• Gardoš tower - the 1896 lookout on the hill above the old town.
• Low Habsburg streets - single-storey houses and central European facades.
• The Danube quay - fish restaurants and floating bars along the water.
• The old market - the working square in the centre.

When to go

April to October, and especially early evening when the quay fills. Sunset from Gardoš is the classic moment. Winter is quiet and the riverside rafts mostly close.

Honest expectations

The climb to the tower is steep on uneven cobbles. Restaurants on the quay are aimed at visitors and priced accordingly, with quality varying widely. The area is a normal residential quarter, not a preserved old town, so upkeep is uneven. Getting there from central Belgrade takes half an hour by bus.

Nearby

Central Belgrade lies southeast; the Danube runs past the quay.