Estufa Fria

At the top of Parque Eduardo VII, in a hollow left by basalt quarrying, Lisbon built a greenhouse that is not really a greenhouse. The Estufa Fria, the cold house, is roofed with wooden laths that break the sun and let the rain through, so the plants inside live in filtered light and open air. Paths wind past streams, ponds and rock walls under palms, tree ferns and camellias. Two glazed sections adjoin it: the Estufa Quente, humid and planted with tropical species, and the Estufa Doce, given over to cacti and succulents. It is small, deliberately shaded, and one of the few places in central Lisbon that stays cool in August.

What you actually see

• The lath roof - filtered light falling through wooden slats onto the paths.
• The water course - streams, ponds and small falls through the rockwork.
• The hot house - a humid glazed section of tropical planting.
• The cactus house - succulents and desert species in the sweet house.

When to go

Open year round and best on a hot afternoon, when the shade and running water make it noticeably cooler than the park outside. Camellias flower in late winter. An hour covers it comfortably, so pair the visit with the park itself. Weekday mornings are quiet, while weekends bring families and photo shoots to the same narrow paths.

Honest expectations

It is compact, and anyone expecting a full botanical garden leaves disappointed. Sections have been closed for repair at times and the fabric shows its age. Paths are uneven with steps, and the rockwork gets slippery after rain. The surrounding park is a long open slope with little shade, and the walk up is steeper than it looks.

Nearby

Parque Eduardo VII, the Gulbenkian gardens and Avenida da Liberdade.