Caldeira Velha

Caldeira Velha is a monumento natural on the northern flank of the Fogo volcano, a fold in the hillside where hot springs emerge among tree ferns and dense green vegetation. There are several pools at different temperatures - one small and hot at around 35 to 38 degrees, others cooler - and a cold waterfall dropping into a pool at the top, so the standard sequence is hot then cold. The water is iron-rich and stains fabric. The vegetation is the other half of the appeal: tree ferns, ginger lily and endemic Azorean plants in a steamy microclimate, with boardwalks and steps through it. A visitor centre interprets the island's volcanology. Access is by timed ticket with a cap on numbers, introduced because the site was being ruined by crowds, and slots must be booked ahead.

What you actually see

• The pools - several thermal baths at different temperatures on the volcano slope.
• The waterfall - a cold fall dropping into a pool above the hot ones.
• The tree ferns - dense endemic vegetation in a steamy microclimate.
• The booking system - timed entry with a cap, introduced after overcrowding.

When to go

Year-round. Two to three hours in a timed slot. Book in advance - walk-up entry is often unavailable.

Honest expectations

Timed tickets sell out, particularly in summer - turning up without one usually fails. Iron water stains swimwear permanently. Changing facilities are basic. The site is small and feels crowded even with the cap.

Nearby

Lagoa do Fogo is up the same road; Ribeira Grande is on the coast below.