Poça da Dona Beija

The Poça da Dona Beija is a set of five outdoor thermal pools built beside a stream just outside Furnas, fed by springs at around thirty-nine degrees, iron-rich and the colour of milky tea. They sit under trees in a small wooded valley, with wooden decking, changing rooms and lockers, and the water is deep enough to sit chest-high. What makes them different from the other Furnas thermal sites is the hours: they stay open into the night, lit by low lamps, and soaking there after dark with the stream running past is the reason most people go. Entry is by timed slot booked in advance, with numbers capped, introduced because the site was overwhelmed. The iron stains fabric permanently, as at Terra Nostra. Furnas around it is a volcanic valley of fumaroles, hot springs and the cozido cooked in the ground.

What you actually see

• The five pools - outdoor thermal baths at around thirty-nine degrees.
• The night opening - lamp-lit soaking after dark, which the other sites do not offer.
• The iron water - milky tea colour, and permanent staining on fabric.
• The valley - a wooded stream setting just outside Furnas village.

When to go

Year-round. Two hours in a timed slot. Evening is the point. Book in advance - slots sell out, particularly in summer.

Honest expectations

Timed entry is capped and sells out; turning up rarely works. The iron water permanently stains swimwear - bring dark things you do not mind ruining. Changing facilities are basic and busy. Pools are crowded even with the cap.

Nearby

Terra Nostra park is in Furnas; the fumaroles and the lake are nearby.