Saturnia

A sulphurous spring rises further up the valley and runs down over travertine that the water itself has built into a staircase of shallow basins beside an old mill, the Cascate del Mulino. The water arrives at about thirty-seven degrees, close to body temperature, and flows continuously, so the pools never need filling or heating. The site is free and open at all hours, which means people bathe at night and in winter as well as in summer. A private spa resort upstream uses the same source. Legend gave the springs a violent origin, from a thunderbolt of Saturn striking the ground.

History

Known as Aurinia until 30 BC, the town takes its name from Saturn, who legend says sent a thunderbolt that opened a spring of warm sulphurous water to calm the wars of men. A Roman colony arrived in 183 BC; in 1300 the Sienese razed the town, then a hideout of outlaws, and the spring was rediscovered in the late 19th century, when the land around it was drained and a spa built (Wikipedia, Saturnia).

Highlights

• The travertine terraces - white basins built by the water over centuries.
• The old mill - the ruined building the falls run past.
• The constant temperature - about 37 degrees year-round, day and night.
• The free access - open at all hours with no gate or ticket.

When to go

April to November for comfort; winter and night bathing are popular because the water stays warm. Weekends and August are crowded from morning onward.

Before you go

There are no changing facilities beyond basic paid ones nearby, parking fills fast and costs money in season, and the smell of sulphur stays on skin and swimwear.

Nearby

Pitigliano lies east; the Maremma coast is west.