Monte Argentario

Argentario was an island until sand accumulated into two tomboli, the Giannella and the Feniglia, long bars now carrying roads, which tied it to the coast and enclosed the Orbetello lagoon between them; the town of Orbetello sits on a central spit reaching into the middle of the water, joined to Argentario by an artificial dam built in 1841. The mountain rises to over six hundred metres with a corniche road round it, rocky coves rather than beaches on the seaward side, and two harbours, Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole, the latter where Caravaggio died in 1610 after a chaotic final journey. Spanish fortifications from the Presidios crown the heights. The lagoon is a bird reserve with flamingos.

What you actually see

• The two sandbars - the Giannella and Feniglia spits that tied the island to the mainland.
• The Orbetello lagoon - a bird reserve with flamingos between them.
• The two harbours - Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole.
• The Spanish forts - Presidio fortifications on the heights.

When to go

May to September; August is very crowded and expensive with heavy traffic on the single corniche road. Spring and autumn suit the lagoon birdlife.

Honest expectations

The coast is mostly rock, with few sandy beaches and many private clubs. Summer traffic on the ring road is slow. Prices in Porto Ercole are high.

Nearby

Giglio is offshore; the Maremma park lies north.