Bagni San Filippo

Hot springs on the flank of Monte Amiata carry dissolved calcium carbonate, and as the water cools and degasses it leaves the mineral behind, building white terraces and drapes down a wooded stream bed. The largest formation is called the Fosso Bianco or the White Whale for its size and shape. Pools below it hold water at temperatures that vary with distance from the source, from hot near the top to mild downstream, and people move between them to find one that suits. The site is free, unfenced and in the woods, with no facilities beyond a path down from the road.

What you actually see

• The White Whale - a large white limestone drape over the stream.
• The terraced pools - basins cooling in steps down the wooded gully.
• The sulphur smell - strong at the hottest pools near the source.
• The wood setting - a natural stream bed rather than a built spa.

When to go

April to November; cooler months are more comfortable in hot water. Weekends and summer bring crowds to a small site. Snow can close the road in winter.

Honest expectations

There are no changing rooms, showers or supervision, and parking is limited on a narrow road. The path down is steep and slippery. The smell of sulphur is strong.

Nearby

Bagno Vignoni lies north; Monte Amiata rises above.