The Caldera Hot Springs

Barú's heat comes up in several places on its flanks, and the best known is below the village of Caldera, where a set of pools sits beside the Río Chiriquí with water ranging from pleasantly warm to genuinely hot. They are on private land with a small charge, and they are simple: stone and concrete basins, a changing hut, and the cold river a few steps away to jump into afterwards, which is the whole appeal. A short trail through dry forest leads down from the parking area, passing petroglyph-carved boulders on the way. It is far quieter than anything around Boquete itself.

What you actually see

• The thermal pools - several basins at different temperatures.
• The cold river - a few steps away, for alternating with the heat.
• The petroglyphs - carved boulders on the walk down.
• The dry forest - a different landscape from the Boquete highlands.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the track passable. Mornings and late afternoons are quietest. After heavy rain the river rises and the pools can be flooded or muddy.

Honest expectations

The access track is rough and needs a high-clearance vehicle or a walk. Facilities are basic: a changing hut and nothing else. The pools are small and can be crowded at weekends. The water smells of sulphur. Payment is cash to whoever is at the gate.

Nearby

Boquete is half an hour north; David is 40 minutes south.