Northern Coast Cuisine

The northern coast has its own kitchen, and its markers are coriander in quantity, chicha de jora used as a cooking liquid, loche - a squash grown only in Lambayeque with an intense aroma - and slow cooking. Arroz con pato is duck cooked with dark beer or chicha and coriander, the rice cooked in the resulting liquid until it is deep green; seco de cabrito is kid goat stewed the same way, served with beans and rice. Ceviche in the north is sharper and often made with mero or cachema, with more lime and served with a heavier hand of onion. There is also cabrito with tamales, chirimpico from the offal, espesado on Mondays in Lambayeque, and a family of causas and stuffed dishes. Monsefú and the villages around Chiclayo are known for their picanterías, and the region drinks chicha with all of it.

What to look for

• The coriander - used in quantity, turning rice and stews deep green.
• The chicha de jora - fermented maize used as a cooking liquid, not just a drink.
• The loche - a squash grown only in Lambayeque, aromatic and distinctive.
• The dishes - arroz con pato, seco de cabrito, espesado and northern ceviche.

When to go

Year-round. Espesado is traditionally a Monday dish in Lambayeque. Lunch is the main meal and when picanterías are at their best.

Good to know

Portions are very large. Kid goat has a strong flavour that not everyone likes. Chicha in the cooking is fine, but drinking it carries the usual risks. The best picanterías are outside the cities and need transport.

Nearby

Monsefú and the Chiclayo valleys have the picanterías; Trujillo has its own versions.