Chicha de Jora

Chicha de jora is made from maize that has been germinated - jora - then dried, ground, boiled and left to ferment in large clay vessels, producing a cloudy, slightly sour, lightly alcoholic drink of roughly two to five per cent. It predates the Inca and was central to their state: chicha was brewed in quantity by the acllas, the chosen women, and distributed at ceremonies and to work parties, since a state that mobilised labour through reciprocity had to feed and give drink to those who worked. It is still made and still drunk daily in highland Peru, sold from houses that hang a red flag or a plastic bag on a pole outside to signal a fresh batch. Before drinking, a splash is poured on the ground for the Pachamama, which is not a performance for visitors but ordinary practice. Frutillada, chicha with strawberry, is a common variant.

What you actually see

• The red flag - a pole with cloth or a bag outside a house, marking a fresh brew.
• The clay vessels - large fermentation jars in the chichería.
• The offering - a splash poured on the ground for the Pachamama before drinking.
• The history - a drink central to Inca ceremony and labour organisation.

When to go

Year-round. Chicherías open in the afternoon and evening. A glass or a jug; it is very cheap.

Honest expectations

It is made in home conditions with unfiltered water and stomach upsets are common for visitors - many people avoid it for that reason. Sour and cloudy, and not to everyone's taste. Alcohol content is low but the volumes drunk are large. Chicherías are local drinking places, not tourist venues.

Nearby

Cusco, Arequipa's picanterías and the Lambayeque valleys all have strong chicha traditions.