Amazonian Cuisine

Amazonian food in Peru works from a different larder to the coast and the sierra. The staples are yuca and plantain rather than potato and rice; the protein is river fish - paiche, doncella, gamitana, palometa - along with chicken and, in some places, bushmeat that is legally problematic. Leaves do the work of pans: juane wraps seasoned rice and chicken in bijao and boils it; patarashca wraps whole fish with herbs and grills it; tacacho is mashed plantain with pork crackling, formed into balls. Palm fruits are everywhere, above all aguaje, sold as fruit, as ice cream and as the fermented drink aguajina, and camu camu, which has extraordinary vitamin C content. Chonta, the palm heart, is eaten as salad. Cocona, a tart fruit, is made into juice and sauces. Masato, fermented yuca, is the traditional drink of many communities.

What you actually see

• The leaf cooking - juane and patarashca wrapped in bijao and grilled or boiled.
• The river fish - paiche, doncella and gamitana as the main protein.
• The palm fruits - aguaje and camu camu in fruit, drink and ice cream form.
• Tacacho - mashed plantain with pork crackling, formed into balls.

When to go

Year-round. Juane is eaten heavily around the San Juan festival on 24 June. A meal takes an hour or two.

Honest expectations

Bushmeat and protected species including turtle are sold and served in some places - do not eat them. Masato is fermented by traditional methods and often causes stomach trouble for visitors. Very heavy on starch. Paiche is farmed now, but wild stocks remain under pressure.

Nearby

Iquitos, Tarapoto and Pucallpa all have strong restaurant scenes for this cooking.