Ngardmau Waterfall

Palau's fame is underwater, but Babeldaob - the big, green, half-forgotten main island - holds the topside prize: the Ngardmau falls, where the Diongradid River drops a broad white curtain some 30 metres over a basalt shelf into a swimmable pool, the largest waterfall in Micronesia by most reckonings. The approach is half the fun: a rainforest trail descending past old Japanese-era mining relics (a rickety mini-monorail shadows the route for the walk-averse), with pandanus and palms closing overhead until the falls' rumble takes over. Standing under the curtain is the traditional finish - a shoulder massage set to 'firm'.

What you actually see

• The main curtain - Micronesia's biggest fall over its basalt shelf.
• The plunge pool - the swim and the pummelling stand-under.
• The jungle trail - rainforest descent past mining-era relics.
• Babeldaob's green interior - the big island beyond Koror's bustle.

When to go

Year round - the falls never dry; the wetter months (roughly June to October) swell the curtain and slick the trail in equal measure. Mornings beat both heat and tour timing.

Honest expectations

The trail back up is the workout everyone forgets to budget - allow sweat time, or ride the monorail where running. Rocks are slippery and the pool's edges uneven; water shoes earn their keep. The site is simply maintained; facilities are modest.

Nearby

Babeldaob's ring road, the Badrulchau monoliths in the north and Koror.