Shandur Pass

Shandur is less a pass than a plateau, a broad grassy saddle at around 3,700 metres with a lake in the middle, grazed by yaks for most of the year and almost empty. For a few days each July it transforms: the Shandur Polo Festival brings the teams of Gilgit and Chitral to the stone-walled polo ground that claims to be the highest in the world, and thousands of spectators camp on the plateau in a tent city with markets, music and dancing. The polo played is the mountain freestyle version, faster and rougher than the lowland game, with few rules and local riders who have played since childhood. The rivalry between the two sides is a century old, dating to the British era, and feelings run high. Outside festival week, the plateau offers the lake, the emptiness and the drive itself, which is long and rough from either side.

What you actually see

• The polo ground - the stone-walled pitch on the plateau.
• The festival tent city - camps, markets and music each July.
• Shandur lake - the pool at the centre of the saddle.
• Yak pastures - the plateau in its ordinary, empty state.

When to go

Early July for the festival, with exact dates set each year; book transport and camping early because everything fills. June to September for the plateau in its quiet state. The pass is snowbound and effectively closed from late autumn to late spring.

Honest expectations

Festival week is crowded, dusty and logistically demanding, with long rough drives, basic camping and cold nights at altitude; outside that week there is very little infrastructure at all. The roads from both sides are hard on vehicles and passengers. Altitude affects visitors who arrive quickly from low elevations.

Nearby

Phander Lake lies east; Mastuj and Chitral are west down the valley.