Bhit Shah

Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai, who died in 1752, is the central figure of Sindhi literature: his Shah Jo Risalo is a body of poetry built around the folk heroines of Sindh, Sassui, Marui, Sohni and the others, using their stories as vehicles for mystical longing. He settled on a sand hill, a bhit, which gave the town its name, and his shrine there is covered in the blue and white tilework of Sindh with a domed chamber and a broad courtyard. What makes Bhit Shah distinctive is the music: singers trained in the specific ragas of the Risalo perform his verses nightly at the shrine, accompanied by the five-stringed tambooro he is said to have designed, and this has continued unbroken for centuries. The annual urs in the Islamic month of Safar brings enormous crowds and a literary festival alongside the music.

What you actually see

• The tiled shrine - blue and white Sindhi tilework and the domed tomb chamber.
• Nightly singing - Risalo verses performed in their traditional ragas.
• The tambooro - the five-stringed instrument associated with the poet.
• The urs - the annual festival with music and literary gatherings.

When to go

November to February for the weather; evenings are when the music happens, so an overnight nearby is worth it. The urs in Safar is the great occasion but very crowded. Thursday evenings draw larger regular gatherings.

Honest expectations

Modest dress and shoes off inside; women's access to some areas is limited. Photography during performances requires permission and tact. The town has few facilities, so most visitors stay in Hyderabad or Hala. Security screening at the shrine can be thorough.

Nearby

Hala with its Kashi tilework and pottery is close; Hyderabad lies south.