Al Hamra

Al Hamra sits at the foot of the Jebel Shams massif on a slope above date gardens, and its old quarter is one of the largest surviving groups of mud-brick houses in Oman, some of them three and four storeys with carved doors and window frames, dating in part to the Yaruba period of the seventeenth century. Many stand empty and some have collapsed, but the streets are walkable and a few buildings have been restored. Bait al Safah is a house-museum run by local women where the old domestic crafts are demonstrated, grinding grain, pressing oil, baking bread and making rosewater and coffee. The falaj still runs and the gardens below are worked.

History

Until 1066 AH the area was a scatter of ancient villages and oases known as the Kadam region; the Al Abri tribe settled Al Hamra in the late 17th century under the Yaruba imams, working on the Falaj Al-Hamra that brought water to the land. Many of its Yemeni-style mud-brick houses now stand empty as people have moved into modern buildings (Wikipedia, Al Hamra, Oman).

The main sights

• The mud-brick quarter - the tall old houses and their carved doors.
• Bait al Safah - the working house-museum with craft demonstrations.
• The falaj and gardens - the water channel and date plantations.
• Jebel Shams above - the mountain wall behind the town.

When to go

October to March; summer is very hot at this altitude on the plain. Mornings are best for light in the narrow lanes. Bait al Safah keeps daytime hours and is closed on Fridays.

What to expect

Many houses are derelict and unsafe, and entering them is unwise. The old quarter is only partly restored. Bait al Safah is a demonstration set up for visitors rather than an ordinary household. Facilities in town are limited.

Nearby

Misfat al Abriyeen lies above; Jebel Shams is north.