Datanlí-El Diablo Nature Reserve

Datanlí-El Diablo protects the cloud forest on a ridge between Jinotega and Matagalpa, rising to around 1,650 metres, and it sits directly above a belt of shade-coffee farms, several of which run lodging and guiding into the reserve. The draw is the resplendent quetzal, which breeds here and is seen with reasonable regularity in the season, along with three-wattled bellbirds, emerald toucanets and howler monkeys. Trails climb from the farms through coffee into forest, with waterfalls on some routes. Because the coffee is grown under shade the transition from farm to forest is gradual, which is part of why the birds persist. The farms of La Fundadora and Ostuma are the usual bases and both are cooperative-run.

What you actually see

• Quetzals - breeding birds seen with reasonable regularity in season.
• Shade-coffee farms - cultivation running up to the forest edge.
• Cloud forest trails - paths climbing from the farms into the reserve.
• Bellbirds and toucanets - the other highland birds of the ridge.

When to go

March to June is the quetzal breeding season and the reason to time a visit; birds are quieter and harder outside it. December to April is driest for the trails. Early morning is essential for birding.

Honest expectations

Quetzal sightings need an early start, a guide who knows the territory and some luck. Accommodation is basic farm lodging. Trails are muddy and steep. Access roads from Jinotega are rough and public transport is limited.

Nearby

Jinotega lies west; Matagalpa is south.