Kirtipur

Kirtipur stands on a ridge above the southwestern edge of the Kathmandu valley, a Newar town that held out longest against the Gorkha conquest in the eighteenth century and has kept a character distinct from the city spreading below it: narrow brick lanes, courtyards, water tanks and a scatter of temples on the high ground, with the Bagh Bhairab temple in the centre hung with weapons said to be surrendered arms, and the Chilancho stupa and Uma Maheshwar temple on the two summits. Weaving and dyeing are still worked in the lanes. The town is also known for Newari food, and the local restaurants serving bara, chatamari and buffalo dishes draw people out from Kathmandu specifically to eat.

What you actually see

• Brick lanes and courtyards - the Newar townscape on the ridge.
• Bagh Bhairab temple - the central shrine hung with old weapons.
• Hilltop shrines - Chilancho stupa and Uma Maheshwar on the summits.
• Newari restaurants - the food that draws visitors from the city.

When to go

October to April for clear air and mountain views from the ridge; October and November are best after the monsoon. Festivals through the autumn fill the lanes. The pre-monsoon months bring haze.

Honest expectations

Earthquake damage from 2015 is still visible and some temples remain under repair. The town is workaday rather than preserved, with concrete building alongside the old fabric. Streets are steep and narrow. There is little interpretation.

Nearby

Kathmandu lies northeast; Chandragiri hills rise southwest.