Saharna

Saharna sits in a wooded gorge running down to the Dniester, and it combines two things: an active Orthodox monastery, the most visited pilgrimage destination in Moldova, holding relics of a local saint, and above it a valley where a stream drops through a chain of waterfalls - twenty-two by the usual count - along a walking trail. Higher up are the remains of a cave monastery cut into the cliff and, according to local tradition, a rock bearing the footprint of the Virgin Mary. The combination of forest walk, water and pilgrimage makes it a standard weekend outing for Moldovans.

What you actually see

• The monastery complex - the churches and pilgrimage site in the gorge.
• The waterfall trail - the walk up past the chain of cascades.
• The cave monastery - the rock-cut cells high in the cliff.
• The gorge forest - the wooded valley above the Dniester.

When to go

Spring brings the strongest water flow and green forest; autumn brings colour. Major religious feasts fill the monastery with pilgrims and are atmospheric but crowded. Winter access is possible but the trail gets icy.

Honest expectations

Modest dress is required at the monastery - headscarves for women are expected and usually available at the entrance. The waterfall trail is muddy and involves steps and roots; flow is much reduced in dry summers. The site is busiest at weekends and on feast days. Facilities are limited to a small shop and basic toilets.

Nearby

Tipova cave monastery, the Dniester valley and Orheiul Vechi.